by Amber N. Johnson
May 9th, 2023
(Sagrada Família, 2021)
It’s funny how we find certain destinations as known or familiar to us. Whether that’s true–through multiple visits, due to people or elements available at said locale, connection to ‘sense of place,’ or it’s all merely imagined! I find myself considering this concept today, the ways in which I’ve connected to places I’ve lived or visited, especially across time. And while I could name a few, I’m going to focus on one popular tourism spot.
Consider this destination–Barcelona. At first thought, my inclination is to consider it as a vibrant, challenged, laid-back, chock-full-of-happenings city. I then recognize how most folks I talk to want to visit Spain, specifying that this is their dream destination. I wonder why it’s such a popular one–the specific reasons–and consider flight connections, beachfront access, international energy, and relatively affordable prices coming from some countries. My second thought connects to how I’ve known it–as part of Catalunya culturally as opposed to Spanish, as a proximate urban hub, a weekend getaway, a graduation trip destination and, initially, as an exciting backpacking destination way back in 2016.
(Barcelona Port, 2021)
The ‘sense of place’ (SoP) concept defined through National Geographic as “the emotions someone attaches to an area based on their experiences,“ with an added note of flexible temporality, plays well into my reflection [1]. I’ve held a variety of relationships with this city.
(About to get busted by security at Park Güell,
I thought it was okay LOLZ, 2016)
(The best backpacking crew in Barcelona, 2016)
I first got to know this place in 2016. Two dear friends and I had schemed up a wild month-long whirlwind self-planned backpacking trip through Europe. As many American and other far-flung travelers might envision. Fast tourism to the extreme! Meeting up in my first ever study abroad destination, Ljubljana, Slovenia, we found ourselves adventuring through 8 countries–Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Italy, Spain, Belgium, and France! Spain was during the later part of our trip, and I remember feeling so enamored. If I recall correctly, I spent far too much time taking pictures of beautifully painted doors. So much so, that my two traveling companions had to throw themselves in front of said doors, to stop me. It’s comical now! Imagining how fixated I was on those doors. I’ve never once thought of them since returning! It’s hard to reminisce on this distinctly novel trip to Barcelona.
(Blocking the aforementioned artsy doors and walls, 2016)
I remember specific instances–walking up the boardwalk after disembarking from our wild ferry boat we’d taken from Italy and seeing Christopher Columbus’ statue looming above. Young people, tourists, families, older folks, everyone was there! They were lounging on fresh grass, strolling down the Gran Via, savoring tapas. So much was happening! Next, I remember our accommodation–a wild Airbnb scenario (back when Airbnb was cheap and had more of a local style) with so much noise and a lack of air conditioning (AC). I remember Veggie Garden, this little vegan restaurant we kept finding ourselves back at for its variety and prices. I can’t forget how we had some weird kerfuffle with the waiter while I was trying to pay back my friends via my card. Lost in translation, to the max! In fact, our entire way of traveling was different. Not very accurate GPS, no phone data, booking accommodation and transportation the day before most of the time, and loosely adhering to our overall itinerary of cities, sights, & nations. But I remember distinctly thinking that my family would really enjoy this city. I had often been visiting more off-the-beaten-path destinations, and this one was the first that felt like it had an international appeal. I also remember sea bathing past midnight with my dear friend at Barceloneta beach under a beautiful moon, while our fellow dear friend slept soundly (in the style of our boat adventure, *cue us demanding he eat our overpriced boat pasta buffet and him refusing to wake up*). Those memories stay with me. As one leg of our amazing adventures!
(Sagrada Família, 2022)
Fast forward to 2021, five years later, when I found myself living in proximity to this famous city. I don’t actually recall which time I came back first (because I ended up visiting many times that summer and autumn from the cities of Terrassa and Girona). I do remember that summer held different experiences of the city. Upon returning to this destination, I couldn’t remember a thing! I felt like I was a different person, or this city was a different city! The semblances of familiarity that I met included: seeing the Christopher Columbus statue, passing by Veggie Garden and gasping aloud with recognition, and wandering through the streets. Other things would come later: when visiting Park Güell, seeing Sagrada Família up close, re-living the experiences of a midnight swim at Barceloneta, and more. But it was so bizarre! I really, truly felt the growth and change I’d experienced as a person in five years. It felt like a different lifetime almost, that I had been in Barcelona.
(Bcn Adventures, 2021)
Another thing had changed, since last I’d visited Barcelona. I soon began to associate with it differently. Living close, and in a small Catalàn town nearby (approximately 40 minutes by metro), Barcelona became Bcn to me (an abbreviation, a nickname). It also became a normal fixture in my life, a place to visit for a weekend or day trip. I visited friends, connected with mutual acquaintances, went on adventures through museos, screeched when cars almost ran me over in alleyways, brunched and hiked like wild, demanded in jest that a friend turn himself into the police when his name, age, and color of swim trunks was announced at the beach! I saw things I wouldn’t have seen as a typical tourist. I found my favorite coffee shops and international cuisine restaurants. I remember one of the days I went, I thought to myself: “I could have been anywhere today, I didn’t do anything touristy or unique to Bcn.” I had brunched with friends, wandered around, lounged at the beach for hours, hiked a hill, and basically behaved as a local who didn’t find this city to be anything special! I could have been absolutely anywhere. Of course, other days I found myself visiting special spots, trying good foods, seeking out events, and more! Later, my class would take field trips to this city for the Barcelona EXPO and Barcelona Arts Hotel, focused on business and tourism ventures. And during my graduation in 2022, I welcomed my family to the city and participated in many fun touristy and casual activities. Suddenly, this familiarity allowed me to become a ‘so-called expert’ tour guide and I had so much fun with it! So my relationship to this place has juggled so many roles and variations of interpretations.
(Bcn Adventures, 2021)
Recently, I recognized the adjustments I’ve made in how I now classify this city. In 2016, Barcelona was Spain to me, as it probably is to many international tourists. After spending a year living in Spain–half the year in this region and half in the Andalucían province of Spain in the city of Sevilla–I now think of it distinctly as a mix between Catalàn and international, not quite a stereotypical Spanish feeling. The difference? I have lived here for a longer chunk of time, and experienced different regions. And, while I don’t feign to know all the intricacies of identity and nationality, I have witnessed the strong presence of Catalàn culture, identity, and pride in this region. Similarly, I experienced the identity of Andalucía. My image of Spain–bullfighting, tapas, flamenco, and more were more present in the latter. But clearly, that doesn’t mean it is more Spanish. It’s also how locals feel and identify. Through travel and research, visiting 30 cities during my year, I noted how Spain truly is quite diverse and particular depending on any given province or city. There is a deep regard and sense of place, or belonging, held by many residents depending on their region of origin. And I have met those from nearly every province who relocated! It’s a fascinating country. The lesson in this for me is that one should be open to better understanding a destination, the local culture, and the residents. We will all associate with places differently, but a more holistic approach includes an openness to others’ interpretations.
Another thing to note, is that for me, and I am sure many visitors, Barcelona embodies a ‘summertime’ seasonality. When I lived nearby, I was confronted with the autumn and winter city experience. It always felt slightly off to me. Possibly, it was because my first visit was in summer. Or perhaps, it’s related to the tourism destination image of this beachside urban destination that is promoted wide and far, with a sun-sangria-siesta focus. But this is something to actually consider when traveling to any destination for tourism, especially those quite famous including Barcelona, Venice, Paris, and more in Europe alone. Barcelona receives 30 million tourists annually, while there are only 1.6 million residents [2]. Visiting in the off-season can actually do more to support the local communities, combat overtourism, and bring about fresh perspectives. A snack of churros con chocolate warms the spirits, local Catalàn holidays celebrated can provide a more intimate tourist encounter with the culture, and the lower number of fellow tourists can improve wait-times and entail lower prices [3]. Similarly, accommodation and flights might have better deals during these months outside of the summer. I experienced this firsthand as a resident in Spain for one year, in both the north and south of the country. The summer prices soar high above the rest of the year! For your potential trip, consider the possibilities!
(Familiar spots in Bcn, 2021)
Now, this city not only holds a general appeal to many, but has a funny way of bringing people together. One summer day when I had commuted in from my small town, I was enjoying myself and reuniting with friends from my program who were calling it home for the summer before our program’s third semester in nearby Girona. I remember sitting at the metro or train station, en route back to Terrassa that evening, sweaty because of the sweltering summer heat but satisfied with a fun day. I opened my social media, and saw a story from a friend based in Germany. We studied and lived together in Qingdao, China in 2018-2019. It was now 2021. I saw her story of an avenue and lots of people. I thought to myself, this looks so much like Spain. Even like Barcelona! It must just be a general European vibe. Then the next story, and the next. She was in Barcelona—TODAY! I messaged her and we immediately started cross-examining our paths of the day. She asked me where I was now. I was already gone–back to my town, and she was already back on her cruise ship–off to another country! It was insane! She asked where I had eaten brunch that day. I told her. She had walked past the place, had SEEN my fellow diners but not me! We had actually crossed paths possibly 2-3x that same day, without having any idea. We both laughed, and lamented that we hadn’t connected. It was SO random! And it was only one of many, many reunions this city has hosted for me! I feel that the more I travel and live in new places, and meet those who do the same, the higher the chances are that we will run into one another somewhere in the world. And honestly, why not Barcelona?
(Enjoying Parc de la Ciutadella, 2021)
There are a myriad of ways to experience and enjoy Barcelona as a destination. My dream day in the city? I’d probably keep it simple. In my own defined methods from the time I had lived there, I would embrace a brunch-beach-bunkers shared constructivist paradigm. I’d wake up, and find my way into the city via public transportation. [Why from elsewhere? Well, it’s cheaper and calmer. But to be fair, if this were a short trip it would make sense to be in the city. In that case–I’ve stayed in everything there–hostels, Airbnbs, nice bed and breakfasts, rented apartments, a park bench (oh wait, that was Croatia), I’d stay in the city.] The first thing I’d want to do is wander the streets and find brunch, and coffee. I’d visit Syra Coffee (iced coffee and the absolute BEST nutella chocolate chip cookies; don’t judge me, I was living abroad for years so this was a special treat) or Satan’s Corner (my internet research suddenly says this is closed now!? If it’s true, shed a silent tear), or maybe another spot. Federal Cafe is a winner for me, no matter which city it finds itself in, although I hold affection for its Girona location. For brunch, possibly Milk or the old favorite, Billy Brunch. Then, wandering and absorbing some art/culture! I love the Gràcia neighborhood, so that would be a good place to meander. Casa Vicens is my favorite of Gaudí’s creations in that area, too. Otherwise the Gothic Quarter and Barcelona Cathedral spots can be fun to get lost in or to shop. Plaça de Catalunya is always lively, the train station area near Barcelona–Sants is somewhere I’m used to also as it is a big transportation hub. My shining star there is a Danish throwback vibe–NEØ Coffee House. It was one of the first spots I visited in Barcelona due to the reviews listing good coffee, treats, and especially important, the generous and sparsely given ‘free water.’ It holds up as a favorite–such good energy.
(A moment of silence for the possibly nonexistent Satan's Corner, 2022)
(A sight for sore eyes, my Syra Coffee, 2021)
At some point I’d make my way up to a viewpoint, either Montjuïc or the Bunker hill. Of course, somewhere like Park Güell would work but the fees there make it more of a visiting spot than a viewpoint. If you want a free spot to enjoy some artistic and relaxing energy, check out Gaudí’s fountain in the Parc de la Ciutadella. In the daytime or evening, I always adore the Plaza Real (Plaça Reial) for its charm and activity–I doubt it’s ever lacking music or performers, although I’d find tapas elsewhere if you can manage. In the afternoon (very late, or evening) I’d want to make my way from the aforementioned park and roam the beachy areas. An evening swim, drinks somewhere fun (for me, either a daring rooftop bar that accepts our party on a whim, or the old student hangout, a Girona original: König–great to try for a smattering of cheap tapas & the you-love-and-hate-it kava based white-sangria TISANA beverage by liter; PS: do not try the so-called ‘Nebraska’ sandwich…it’s all branding and lies) & chats with friends under starlight in a bustling city that rarely sleeps until late. But don’t worry, you can wake up late and miss nada.
(Exploring museos with the fam, 2022)
(Entertaining the fam at Plaza Real, 2022)
This city holds a relaxed, beachy, artsy/cultural & fun vibe. But it’s more than that. And it holds a great variety of experiences. Of course, as I’ve previously mentioned, the ways in which we move in destinations related to local communities is key. While destinations such as Barcelona present challenges–we know many visitors participate in fast tourism, overtourism plagues local residents with stress and often mixed policies, and tourist behavior in many popular countries like Spain is less than satisfactory–we can always choose to treat our travel destinations as we would our own homes, or better. Responsible Tourism is “tourism which minimizes negative social, economic, and environmental impacts [4].” Planning out your time, spending locally, keeping the spaces we inhabit clean, being kind and respectful toward locals and fellow tourists alike, visiting in the off-season or exploring hidden corners and sights that are less crowded are just a few things to keep in mind. If Barcelona is your city of choice, take on the badge of being a responsible tourist. In doing so, you can still have a dream trip and make memories for a lifetime! And, if you truly fall for it, you can return!
(Playing slocal tour guide for my fam, 2022)
Here's to celebrating familiar and favorite destinations & exploring them responsibly!
~Amber
#ambrosiaelsewhere #barcelona #familiar #senseofplace #destinations #tourism #sustainabletourism #spain #catalunya #catalonia #urban #beach #brunch #coffee #cafe #overtourism #responsibletourism
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References:
Sense of Place concept https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/resource-library-concept-place/
Overtourism https://www.solimarinternational.com/what-is-overtourism-and-how-can-we-prevent-it/
Visiting Barcelona in the Off-Season https://theculturetrip.com/europe/spain/articles/the-10-best-things-to-see-and-do-in-barcelonas-off-season/
Responsible Tourism https://sustainabletourism.net/definitionsandresources/
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